Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Sugared Noodles

I translated another few recipes for the cooks mailing list. I had initially thought that "yellow cocoon candy" would be something like cotton candy, or pişmaniye, but this is actually noodles dry-fried and soaked in syrup.  Still neat!  I wonder how these taste.

《食次》曰:From The Sequence of Food [Lost Northern and Southern Dynasties era text on food, which survives in part here.]:

「白繭糖法:熟炊秫稻米飯,及熱于杵臼淨者舂之為𥻓 ,須令極熟,勿令有米粒。
“To make white cocoon candy [actually a kind of friend glutinous rice noodle rolled in sugar to form pellets]: take fully cooked proso millet or rice [commentary thinks it’s glutinous, but I’m not sure from the text], pound it completely in a mortar as if you are making rice cakes.  You must fully pound it, and not allow any grains to remain.
Form into a cake [cakes?]: in the standard way, two fen or so thick.
Dry in the sun until a little dry, and cut it using a knife in straight divisions to form long noodles.
Again dry in the sun until very dry, and fry in oil.
When done, take them out, and roll them in sugar [probably thick syrup] to form balls; making no more than 5-6 balls at a time.”
又云:「手索𥻓 ,麤細如箭簳。
It also reads, “pull the cake by hand, so they’re as fine as [thin?] arrow shafts.
Dry them in the sun until a little dry, and using a knife cut them obliquely [possibly “irregularly”], so they’re the size of date pits.
Fry them, and make them into balls like the previous method.  The balls should be as large as peach pits.  Sometimes, when serving, don’t fill them.

黃繭糖:Yellow Silk-Floss Candy:

Take white glutinous millet, precisely pound it, do not winnow or wash.  Take Gardenia jasminoides seeds/fruit and soak the grain with them to take their color.
Cook it, and pound it into a cake; to the cake add honey.
餘一如白𥻓 。
For the rest, do as for the white cakes.
Make cocoons, fry, and serve as before.

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